The YAK
The Ganesh Himal...
Is a mountain range situated about fifty kilometers (in a straight line) to the north west of Katmandu. Two important rivers define its borders: to the east, the Trisuli Gandaki, that separates it from the Langtang National Park and to the west, the Budhi Gandaki which throws itself into the Shyar Khola that separates the range from the Sringi Himal and the Mansiri Himal (or Manaslu). This range defines the border with the Tibet, thus some of its valleys and summits are located in the Chinese territory, indeed on the border. This is one of the closest range from Katmandu, But nevertheless not so much visited. That is without doubts due to the fact it does not host any summits reaching 8000 m, and also it is not possible to take a ride turning around it without going through the Chinese customs. Consequently, few touristic infrastructures have been set up for the hosting of the eventual travelers. The natural and cultural environment there follows then a strongly different evolution, slower, than that of more visited places as the Parks of the Sagarmatha and Annapurnas. One can find there a typically Nepalese lifestyle not so influenced by the west, grown deeply in the roots of traditional values. Most of the paths and towns are located in the "meadow mountains" (already 3500 m) covered with jungle, sheltering a luxurious biodiversity. Closer to the high summits, one can reach lakes and ridges cimbing up to 5000 meters, and, for the most adventurous ones, it is even possible to devote itself to the joys of the high mountain, while attacking themselves to the summits, or to ride some of the valleys with a mountain bike.
Trekking permits and TIMS
There is no any permit to pay to go in the Ganesh Himal. Nevertheless, if you reach the area following the road through Dunche and Syabru Bensi, you’ll drive through the entry of Langtang National Park and policemen will ask you to pay the access to this one (1000 rupees). If you go through the Gosaikund, you will have to pay this access as well.
ACCESS
Given the size of Ganesh Himal range (we are in the Himalayas!) it would be absurd to think that you can reach there by a single way… This kind of reflexion encourages the travelers to follow dedicaced ways. This generates profit for inhabitants situated on the good trail, while other villages, situated away from the main path, do not profit from the presence of tourists. This also concentrates the negative consequences of tourism (Waste, improper idealization of the western model to the detriment of the local values) . If tourists were dispatched, the region could better absorb the problems.
In this framework, we propose to describe the access to the Ganesh-Himal through several ways, who present each their advantages and inconvenients…we are conscious that there are always some other ways, there will always be an infinity…
Syabru bensi’s road
Is the quickest way to go in the Ganesh Himal, following the "big" road of Katmandu. It leaves the Northwest part (Balaju bus park) city, runs throught Kakani pass (Wonderful panorama, beginning upon the Annapurnas and reaching Solu khumbu if you’re lucky), goes through Trisuli (where the black-topped road ends), Betrawati, Kalikasthan, Dunche, Syabru-Bensi. From there it climbs back up a few hundreds of meters to reach a pass. It separates itself in two a few minutes away: a track takes back down towards Tangmachet, another continues to Gatlan and then climbs up to a pass reaching 3600 meters to reach Somdan. This trip is quite short: 160 kilometers, but takes a lot of time for such a distance. The bus costs 160 rupees for Syabru in a 10 hours trip. Several departures (rather early) are managed every day from Balaju. Inform yourself: some buses stop in Dunche, while others can even get you to Tangmachet, the schedules change often. One can also prefer a little more comfortable transportation (this is very relative) on board of a small van, this is a little better but stops itself in Trisuli. You still have to catch a bus from there. You are still squeezed... One can rent a jeep (6 persons, the price includes the driver) for about 11000 rupees, which reduces the trip to 6 hours, and improves the comfort. The return trip costs less money. At last, it is possible to do it with a bicycle (you should really use a mountain bike), if you trained yourself before (between 2500 and 3000 meters of positive difference in height). It’s a god challenge in 2 days (some say it’s possible in one).
The banks of the Trisuli River – Haku Side
Riding on the bus for Syabru you can get off in Betrawati, shortly after Trisuli, at the entrance of Rasuwa district (you’ll see a big panel showing « welcome in rasuwa », an a bridge)). From there, you can climb up towards the Ganesh Himal following the Trisuli.In Betrawati, immediately after the bridge, take on the left on a way that goes down. Walk left shore for about three kilometers then borrow the bridge for and reach the right shore. Then follow the path or the road to Mailun Dhoban straight north. You’ll walk nearby many boulders (nice for climbing), and the waterfalls are beautiful! The bottom of the valley shelters members of the Maoist rebellion, not always cooperative, but nothing very dangerous. .. they stay beyond one thousand meters of altitude. When you arrive in Mailun Dhoban, cross the Mailun Khola then to climb up towards Gogane, then Thulo Haku and Nessin. Next, you can go down towards Syabru Bensi at the bottom of the (you will have avoided the check post of Langtang National Park on the road of Katmandu just before Dunche…). You can also go throught Balbuto Banyan (about 2600 m) to arrive above Gatlan. This trip climbs stiff from Mailun Dhoban, and it can be hard to begin a trek…. For the sportsmen, no problems!
Towards Singla Danda
From Mailun Dhoban, you can climb up towards the left following the Mailun Khola during 1 or 2 kilometers. You can then climb up to Karumaryan: This is a very wild path (be prudent!). This valley is very isolated, one there breathes a wild air. The people there really not accustomed to seeing westerners. From this village, you can climb on the Singla ridge on which some points reach 4000 metres and offer a spectacular view on the Ganesh Range. You can follow the ridge to the north and join the Pansan Pass or take back down on tiplin. Beware! This itinerary is wild, there are no villages, just some karkas in dispersed rocks. It is essential to hire a local oguide if you don’t not want to lose yourself, and to find water. Beware of altitude sickness... The Mailun Khola You can climb up from Mailun Dhoban and arrive in Somdan. The path is knowed to be very dangerous even by the locals, who are nevertheless very strong... So, it is necessary to count 3 days, and this is not recommended. There is not any village all along the path.
Gosaikunda Lakes
You can climb by foot from Katmandu going through the trek of Helambu and the Laurebina la at 4600 meters (itinerary described in commercial guides). You arrive then to the holy lakes of Gosaikunda and then to Dunche from which you can reach Syabru Bensi. This trip is already is a serious trek in itself. If you can choose, it is better to use this way to set off , the slope from Katmandu being a very stiff one. The main trail is full of lodges and tea shops, which allows you a good comfort. It is necessary for you to pay the accesses to Helambu and to Langtang National Park.
Gosaikunda lakes are also accessible from Kalikasthan, while climbing up towards the north on the ridge that dominates the village. Follow the line of the ridge towards the northeast to reach the lakes. Count 3 days in uninhabited altitude wilderness. It seems there are karkas. Some sections seem to be difficult, but it seems also that pilgrims have been using this way for a long time.Thus, it should be reliable.
It’s necessary to talk about the New Horizon Children’s Club, in Jhyarlangla, a half hour walk from Kalikastan. It’s a young association which is funded by dance shows for tourists. A real good accasion to talk with locals and to bring money in this very remote and poor area of Rasuwa district. It can be useful to inform yourself before going there, just to say you’re coming! For this, join Kishan Devkota in katmandu (Kriss214@gmail or 98 41 42 56 13) or again Hari Devkota in Kalikasthan: 97 41 00 83 17. Ankhu Khola Valley
This road proposes an access from the south of the range. It goes through paths used by the locals , you can ask your way all the time. There are two possibilities:
1)From Trisuli, catch a bus to Deurali, then a truck to Kimtan. A path follows the left side of the valley, keeping an altitude of about 1500 m (still some good descents, all the way long, to pass the rivers who cut the mountain perpendicularly). Since Kimtan, reach Satya Devi, then Kalmran, Boran, and at last Sertun (1900 m) and Tiplin (2200 m). Count 3 or 4 days. Sleep with the inhabitant or camp in the gardens or fields (ask before!).
2)The other solution is to take the bus to Dadhing, and next to rally Kahare Bazaar. From there, follow the bottom of Ankhu Khola valley, And climb the stiff flanks at the vertical of Boran. The advantage is that one avoids the up and downs of the first itinerary. You ride on a trail borrowed by the carriers that deal with merchants in Sertun and Tiplin. This very beautiful itinerary begins very low (less than 500 m to Kahare bazaar) and gives therefore the occasion to cross different climatic floors, and to observe the landscape who changes as a result. From mud houses surrounded by banana plantationsat the bottom to rock »made ones surrounded by potatoe fields in Tipling. Foresee at least three days for this road. On the other hand taking a guide is not necessary, the way being frequented by the locals.
From Gorkha
This is the western access to the range: Take a bus from Gorkha, and climb up towards the North heading for the trek of the Manaslu. Reach Arughat Bazaar. Climb then on the right and go throught a pass to take back down in the valley of the Ankhu Khola and reach Boran. Also from Gorkha, while climbing up towards the North alongside the Shyar Khola, you can go in the valley of Tsum, to the North of the Ganesh Himal, while going through the Park of the Manaslu (will be tyhe subject of an entire guide. You’ll have to take manslu permits and bring an official from katmandu...)
VILLAGES AND OTHER PLACES
South of Rasuwa
Betrawati
is the first village of the district of Rasuwa that you see when you arrive by the road of Katmandu. This is there that you’ll have to set off of the bus if you want to go to Mailun Dhoban.
Mailun Dhoban (931m) Is the small village situated at the confluent of two rivers (this is the meaning of "dhoban"), the Trisuli and the Mailun Khola. This is an obliged passage if you want to access the Ganesh Himal by foot, following the Trisuli. The place is not so big, there is one or two passals. The town is the last destination of a track (under construction) coming from Betrawati. From this place, you can climb towards Gogane or Karumaryan. It exists also a way going to Somdan, By the Mailun Khola, but not very frequented and dangerous (count 3 days, if you are not dead on the way).
Karumaryan (1400M) Is a very isolated village, on a mountain flank to the west of Mailun Dhoban. The access is managed from Mailun Dhoban through a way a little bit dangerous. It is populated by Tamangs. This is the departure point towards Singla Danda. It’s a very poor and calm village.
Kalikasthan
Is situated on the bus trip. This is the first big town that one finds after Betrawati, on the road coming from Katmandu. The city itself presents a few interesting stuff. There was a dedicated temple to Kali but it was destroyed, by the maoïsts it seems. The town is full of stores, and one can find here most of functionalities. Not far from there, in the village of Jhyarlangla, is set the NHCC, an association of young Nepaleses...
From there, You can also reach by a maybe difficult way, Gosaikunda lakes.
Jhyarlangla
Is a village situated at an half hour walk from the marketplace of kalikastan. From there, follow the old track that takes to a "landslide". The track construction was abandoned when people realized that it should be rebuild every three years. Very quickly, there is a path on the left, follow it. It is very difficult to be mistaken. This town owns the characteristic to be of mixed population (Hinduists and Buddhists). The architecture is typical of the Hindu ones (red mud) but some kilometers farther one finds Tamang houses made with rock. Beautiful walks (easy, 3000 metres maximum) on the ridge, splendid forests, and even a bouldering site for climbers (nothing classified, there are just a lot of boulders!). It appears that it isalso an excellent place to observe the wildlife (the very lucky one there will be able to see snowleopards or the redpandas , less lucky ones will find bears. ..). There’s a road for gosaikunda from there, and therefore this village is a very nice stop, a little away from the metal roofs of kalikasthan.
On the same flank, you’ll find many other villages (Jijibe,...).
North of rasuwa
Syabru Bensi (1400 m)
Syabru Bensi is the last town who is worthy this name, situated on the road coming from Katmandu. From this point, it climbs up while to a 2200 m pass to leave towards Gatlan, then Somdan. A road goes down towards Tangmachet.
In syabru, you are at the start of Langtang trek. It is filled up with lodges and military officers, But one there finds anyway a life that is close to the region inhabitants habits: several traditional houses, a school. The town is influenced by the presence of a Tibetan refugee camps (the border is at a few kilometers to the north). You can go on internet in the school on the other side river, This is very slow. You can also can do international phonecalls. It is expensive.
Dunche (2200 m)
Town relatively awful, built around the road of Katmandu, Dunche accuses a lack of interests if you compare to the amount of hotels that you can find there. That’s where sits the TRPAP office, section Rasuwa.
Briddim
On the side of Langtang, you’ll find a Homestay lodge opened by the TRPAP.
Gatlan (2252 m)
Gatlan is a big village of more than 2000 inhabitants with a very traditionnal aspect despite the proximity of Syabru Bensi and the road. The people there are all (?) tamangs, and they always work on the traditional model. Poverty there is striking, And hygiene sometimes reach the limits. The things are beginning to change since the instauration of the « Village Devellopment Comitee » and the arrival of the projects of the TRPAP. One there can find a big « community lodge » (managed by the development committee), as well as a private lodge (maybe 2 at this time). Despite the dirt, the town is worth more than a detour: the houses, In the pure traditional style, are magnificent, and people there celebrates pujas and other ceremonies (weddings, house blessings). A great occasion to follow a way of ancestral life, in the middle of a village that find it strenghts deeply in the earth.
Parvati Kunda (2600 m)
This is a small village about 350 meters above Gatlan. One there finds a small holy pond, covered with flags. A lama lives there, there is a gompa sheltering some statues. The organized treks plant their tents in the garden of the former house of a general.
Tangmachet (1726 m)
Is next to the hydraulic central, there are especially Tibetan refugees. It’s possible to lodge in a small place held by a trio of Tibetan folks. Very familiar welcome (you will probably sleep in the same room than them). Many weavers work in the town: again an occasion to see to the work techniques that are no longer used at in hour countries. If you went through Tiplin, you will admire the technological gap between the two towns.
Tatopani (2601 m)
One will find there hot water springs (that’s the meaning of tatopani: « hot water ») and Hindu pilgrims. There is two or three lodges, And the all village is slowly moving. Prepare yourself to find more at the time of your arrival. We advice to avoid the days of full moons or the Hindu parties, for one there finds big concentrations pilgrims. Nevertheless, it can be interesting if you have any interest for the Hinduism, which is nevertheless not the most important one in the Ganesh-Himal.You will be asked to pay a tax of about 100 rupees to stay there. That will serve to source renovation, they need it if you see the frequentation.
Don’t hesitate to bath! It is nevertheless adviced to go there in the night, in order to avoid to shock some locals. In the middle of the day there are too much people(one never knows which are the attitudes to have when facing the people, especially in a holy spring when you are half-nude). Bewareof temperature difference, which can make you faint, water can be very hot, and it is cold outside.
Thuman Magnificent bloomed tibetan village, rather big. Very similar to Gatlan, but a little more wealthy. Maybe an interesting place if you like traditionnal culture but can’t stay in a dirty place like Gatlan.
Gre
Tamang village. Absolutely no functionality beyond the possibility to be lodged with the inhabitant. The pass to reach therefrom Gatlang offers magnificent views on the valley of the Trisuli Khola, as well as the occasion to go out of beaten paths to explore the ridge. Be prudent nevertheless, the paths used by the woodmen can make you shudder.
Nessin
Tamang place. Same comment. Some differences because of a massive conversion to Christianity. That’s why roofs are equiped with sun systems.
Nagtali (3191 m)
Nagtali is situated on ridge of Kalotupa which separates Tatopani from Thuman. It was formerly a gathering place for buddhist monks and other lamas. They came there to meditate. Today, one there finds a Gompa, hosted by an old lama who plays the tamang guitar. A lodge, managed by a family of Thuman, was recently built. If you want to sleep there, arrive early, otherwise the owners go back down to the village. Otherwise, you can manage with the Llama to sleep in the Gompa, or set up your tent.
Jaisuli Kunda(4434 m)
Jaisuli Kunda is the name of a lake, situated to the North of the ridge separating Gatlan from Somdan. This one is nevertheless totally to dry during winter season. The place constitutes a small glacial circus dominated by a rocky summit higher than 5000 meters. From the moraine you have a panoramic view on the south plains. You can go there by reaching the ridge starting on Somdan pass.It’s also possible through Somdan and a difficult path. It leaves the first mountain pasture after the wood when you follow the road coming from Somdan and cgoing to the mine.
The high valley of Sanjen (from 3500 to 7000 m)
Enclosed by the walls of Ganesh V (6945M) and Paldor(5903m), the valley of the Sanjen Khola is a deserted and magnificent place. The access is difficult for the neophytes of hiking. This one starts from Tatopani, while leaving towards the north. Remain left shore of the torrent, then a while after coming out of the forest, the path crosses it. Follow left shore a few hundreds of metres in slipping stones, then crosse again: do not miss this little bridge, for the way on the bad shore is dangerous! You then end up to discover Paldor north face (a very high pointed peak, which looks like the Cervin, constitutes its first wall), and there, you cross a little bridge above a narrow canyon to reach the valley of Sanjeng.Don’t lose yourself in Tibet! There are lot of Karka without roof throughout the valley until you reach the moraine before high altitude lands… The valley is a good den for the experienced hikers and mountaineers: Access to Paldor north face (real challenge, never been done), to the Ganesh V… there’s also the Kalo pokhari, moraine lake and the glacier that overhangs it, who would allow the access to the Kalo Seto Lakes (itinerary of high mountain, PD?)… take amap, And bring with you strong Nepalese that know the place (the people of Tatopani bring up their yaks every summer).
District of Dadin
Kalo Seto Pokhari (4600 m)
Hanged at the feet of Ganesh range, the two lakes of Kalo and Seto promise an unbelievable itinerary. They are located on the big ridge that descends of the Ganesh straight out (towards the North) of Sertun. Leave with locals, and well acclimatized. The people from sertun climb there to bring their beasts during monsoon.It seems they go by the westside of the ridge, the other being dangerous (there would be anyway a way). There would be Karka at the top.
From these lakes, One should be able to pass in the valley of Sanjeng while finding the access south to the Dilpu pass,higher than 5000 meters. This one leads to the glacier above the Kalo Pokhari (itinerary of high mountain, PD, crampons and piolets).
Pansan Pass (3829 m)
This pass is the obliged way between Tiplin and Somdan. Wind generally blows strongs up there. One there can seize a panorama that embraces at the same time the Langtang, the Shishapangma, the Manaslu and the Annapurna. There are several karkas in the vicinity, of which a big one on the pass. The tiplin-Somdan trip (or the inverse one) is long, it is better to leave early. Beware of the altitude while coming from tiplin: from Somdan, at 3400 m, one must necessarily climb back to 3800meters before being able to take back down underneath 3000…The pass allows the access to the Singla Ridge, Who constitutes the first mountainous step after the range itself. You can ride it while observing magnificent panoramas…beware, you are on a ridge, which means a big lack of water…
Somdan pass (3736 m)
This pass separates the valley of Gatlan from the valley of Somdan (Mailun Khola). There are actually two passes : the one made by the road, and another, that one can pass only on foot, that constitutes an interesting shortcut. From Gatlan, Cut directly towards the North west from Yuri Karka. Since Somdan, cut towards the Left when the occasion presents itself. You finish by a path through the rhododendrons that takes to the pass where located a small karka.
High valleys of Paldor (5985 m)
Underneath the summit of the Paldor,you’ll find hanged valleys reaching 4000 meters in the mountain pasture. The ideal for the easy altitude hiking! There is a mine on the way to Paldor base camp. What is extracted is officially zinc, but some agree to say that they find ruby...
Somdan (3256 m)
Somdan is a small strange cillage, created by the people of Tiplin to sell food to the mine workers. There is anyway a small Nepalese lodge and a camping space. Generally, during the winter, there is not so much people and you’ll find the place closed. Somdan constitutes a good base camp for hikes in the mountain pastures of the Paldor and/or towards Jaisuli Kunda.
Tiplin (1500 m)
Tiplin owes its charm to his position, facing the giants of Ganesh Himal. Thevillage is widely spread and separates itself in two big parties: lower one is called Tiplin Gaon, with beautiful houses blue painted windows roofs of sheet metal, and the upper one, is called Lawadin, with many scattered houses. It is necessary to bear the presence of the Christian communities, Very active (7 churches).
Sertun (1917 m)
Is a havre of buddhist peace in the middle of a tidal wave of christians. Sleep at the veteran’s widow’s house or to the school. Most of people there possess angora rabbits, to furnish the wool factory… a good visit!
Perso (700m)
One of these small villages such as you can find in Ankhu Khola Valley. Stretched all along the trail, their function is to refuel the carriers climbingup the valley, indeed to accommodate them. There is therefore many passals. Those coming from Gatlan will notice the numerous cultural differences (hats, jewels, conception of the kukris) showing the variety of the country. You will find there inexpensive re-provisioning. The tropical settings are surprising when one returns from the mountain (bananas and big spiders...).
Kahare Bazaar
First link of the commercial chain of the Ankhu Khola, this is here that carriers start deliveries in the valley. It’s a small industrious city which awakes early at dawn. Small shabby hotels that no longer have anything traditional, and bus horns at eight o’clock in the morning. One can reach there by bus from Dadin, but the road is in such a state (very slippy, and overhanging cliffs. ..) that the adventure seems dangerous. It is worth to find a jeep, or a bike or anything instead of a bus. Once passed the first pass (since Kahare, apres two hours of road), the position improves, and one crosses quickly bulldozers, tractors and others. From Dading, the road is black-topped until Katmandu. The bottom of the valley where flows the river is flat around Kahare (and on 15 to 20 km before that) and offers strange settings evoking more the ganga plain than the Himalayas.
Trekking in Nepal the guidebook
Trekking in Nepal the guidebook : Generalities
Trekking in Nepal the guidebook : Guidelines for the responsible trekker
Trekking in Nepal the guidebook : the Ganesh Himal
RSS 2.0
Keywords